Filters & Pond Filtration

17 minutes read
Definite noticeable changes occur in koi and goldfish, plants and the pond itself as the temperature of the water begins to drop. Leaves on water plants start to brown and die back. Koi and goldfish become less active and require less food. Leaves fall and cover the surface of the pond. The pond may suddenly clear up after not being clear all year. These are changes we see. The changes we do not see are just as important. Nitrifying bacteria, present all spring and summer in the biofilter, stop reproducing and become none effective. Biological functions in the fish’s bodies, controlled by temperature of the water, slow down and eventually the fish hover at the bottom of the pond in a state of semi-hibernation.
5 minutes read
When a fish is ill and it’s apparent that the illness is bacterial in nature we often refer to it as Aeromonas. We accuse this bad bacteria for a host of illnesses that other types of bacteria create. There’s actually several possible culprits including Pseudomonas, Flexibacter, Streptococcus and Edwardsiella. Aeromonas is by far the most commonly seen and causes dreaded holes in the skin. What they all have in common is that they all are deadly. Wage war on these bad bacterias before they wage war on your fish!
3 minutes read
Think of pH as the way the water feels against the fish’s skin. A low pH “burns” the skin because it is acidic. High pH “chaps” the skin because it is alkalinic. The ideal pH reading for koi and goldfish is around 7.5 but these fish can tolerate a range between 6.8 - 8.2.
3 minutes read
You may have to replace your bulb. Bulbs in UV’s have an effective usage life of 9 to 12 months. If you unplugged your UV during the winter months you extended it’s life. As a rule of thumb, a UV’s lamp should be replaced every year. The bulb loses power as it burns, therefore, it may still be lit but operating at 20% of its original power, rendering it ineffective for the purpose of killing algae. You’ll know when you need to replace your lamp simply by noticing that your UV is no longer clearing up the free-flowing algae.
4 minutes read
Ammonia is deadly. It is primarily created through the fish’s gills, kidneys and intestinal waste. Decaying uneaten food, plant material and leaves also contribute to ammonia accumulations. Ammonia is reportedly the leading cause of fish stress, breaking down his immunity system and leading to bacterial disease. Measurable to high levels of ammonia is common in new ponds (and aquariums), over-stocked ponds and established ponds from heavy feeding in the spring prior to biological bacteria growth or from inadequate filtration
5 minutes read
Certain biological processes must occur before a pond is fully seeded and balanced. Nitrifying bacteria must be present and working in the pond’s ecosystem before the pond can promote a healthy environment for aquatic life. New ponds will have none of those necessary biological processes in place. This creates a “New Pond Syndrome” that can be frustrating if the new pond owner is not equipped with knowledge on how to deal with it. Giving the pond time to develop these processes is the most important step and there are things that we can do to hasten the development.
4 minutes read
Sometimes it “just happens”. Sometimes it seems it never will. A balanced pond is what we all desire because it provides a safer environment for aquatic life and a cleaner pond for us to enjoy. Mother Nature has a way of balancing her own water systems. She continually runs fresh water through her lakes and streams and adds just enough life to the waters to keep them healthy and void of toxic substances. She doesn’t overpopulate her waters. Though it may seem cruel she allows only the strongest individuals of each species to survive so that the species itself remains healthy. She keeps her water balanced by creating what we call the Nitrifying Cycle.